"The Rhône Valley should establish itself in the minds of Europeans and North Americans as a major region for white wine production," declared Philippe Pellaton, President of the southern French marketing organization Inter Rhône, about nine months ago. Now, one of the region’s most important and image-defining appellations has taken that step: With the 2023 vintage, the first white wines from Gigondas are making their debut on the market.
Who, how, what
In 2023, 1,190 ha/2,940 ac were cultivated in Gigondas, managed by 182 producers and six cooperatives. Notably, 30% of these vineyards were farmed organically or biodynamically (though only 2% biodynamic), with another 40% certified under the Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE) label, the most basic level of environmental certification, according to Inter Rhône. The region produced about 37,000 hl of wine in 2023, with just under 1% being white—the first time ever.
The introduction of these new wines was done with little fanfare: in early July, a handful of the world’s most influential wine communicators gathered in the 430-person village at the heart of the southern Rhône Valley. On the tables were the first 19 white wines of the appellation, produced by exactly 17 winemakers.
For those familiar with France, it’s no secret that introducing a new wine at the AOP level is no simple feat. It can take many years to reach a decision in collaboration with the French appellation authority, INAO. In this case, it took more than a decade.
The rules
The final decision was that the blend must include at least 70% Clairette. For some winemakers, this meant they had to plant the variety first. However, this choice was likely influenced by the fact that Clairette has long been well-suited to the sparse soils of southern France and is well-adapted to the region.
Another consideration likely driving the revision of the Cahier des Charges, the document outlining the key guidelines for the appellation, was concern over climate change. Clairette is capable of withstanding the increasingly hot vintages of the future. However, it tends to produce wines with high alcohol content, which can be a challenge as temperatures rise. Despite this, local winemakers remain convinced that the region's long-cultivated, and thus well-adapted, grape varieties will best handle the changing climate.
In addition to the main variety, Bourboulenc, Clairette Rose, Grenache Blanc and Gris, Marsanne, Piquepoul, and Roussanne are also allowed in the blend, with Viognier and Ugni Blanc permitted but limited to a maximum of 5% each. The maximum yield for white wines is set at 40 hl/ha, compared to 36 hl/ha for red and rosé wines. The potential alcohol content for white varieties must be at least 12%.
Of the first 19 white wines, 12 are single-varietal Clairettes. These have generally performed better in tastings, though many of them will benefit from some additional time in the bottle.
The wines
There are no specific rules governing the maturation process, resulting in a pleasing variety among the inaugural wines. These range from fresh and easy-drinking to creamy and full-bodied styles, with even an orange wine making its debut in the first vintage. There is also no mandatory release date for the white wines; theoretically, they could be released as early as December 15th following the harvest. However, most of the white wines introduced so far were released in June or July, with the earliest available in March and the later ones expected in September.
The soils, often rich in marl, contribute to a certain minerality, especially when paired with Clairette, while wines from sandier soils tend to offer a slightly saltier profile.
It's clear that, much like the red wines, Gigondas Blanc will likely remain a niche product in the German market. However, Marco Nikolay, Managing Director at Ludwig von Kapff, is confident in their potential: "For wine enthusiasts, the expansion is very exciting and strengthens Rhône’s white wine offerings. The cool microclimate and limestone soils of Gigondas will produce compelling quality."
Alexandra Wrann
93 Points
2023 Château de Saint-Cosme Hominis Fides, Clairette (100%)
Initially quite reductive, with notes of sesame, dried apple and grapefruit peels, dried chamomile flowers, and cereal. As it opens up, the reduction fades, revealing fresh citrus notes, a touch of salinity, and some savoury notes. The wine has a chalky texture, with considerable tannin on the palate, warm spices, and a juicy character balanced by a lively acidity. The finish is long, driven by its acidity.
92 Points
2023 Château de Saint-Cosme Le Poste, Clairette (100%)
The aroma is more pronounced but very fine and elegant, almost Burgundian in style, with delicate reduction, delicate spices, white pepper, unripe grapefruit, and lemon peel, complemented by a subtle coffee aroma in the background. The palate is immediately striking, with a taut, chalky structure, mouthwatering acidity, and fine, green-citrusy-sesame undertones, leading to an elegant and persistent finish.
91 Points
2023 Les Grandes Serres Pope Culture, Clairette (70%), Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier (30%)
Pronounced notes of reduction with aromas of acacia blossom and honey, a hint of licorice in the background, yellow fruit, and a touch of exotic sensations, though not overly ripe. The palate offers a prominent, slightly creamy texture with fresh acidity and citrus undertones. The wine is assertive with considerable length.
90 Points
2023 Domaine Le Clos des Cazaux, Clairettes Centenaires, Clairette (100%)
Slightly cloudy with an open, spicy aroma featuring sesame, hay notes, and sugared lemon candy. The scent is deep and dense, with a hint of licorice spice and savoury notes, showing great complexity. With more air, notes of lemon balm and mint emerge. On the palate, it is somewhat restrained, mirroring the spice profile found on the nose. The wine is still very young but shows great potential.
2023 Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas, Clairette (90%), Bourboulenc (10%), available from September 15th
The wine is still quite young, with prominent aromas from malolactic fermentation, requiring oxygen to open up. It shows chamomile and salty spices on the nose. On the palate, it is very present, with coffee undertones, a taut structure, and vegetal notes of green asparagus. The finish is of medium length.
Domaine d’Ouréa La Belle Cime, Clairette (100%)
This wine displays a pronounced maceration with a very clear bronze color and no cloudiness. Aromas of grapefruit, chalk, cool Asian fish sauce, salt, bergamot, and unripe blood orange dominate, with caramel notes emerging as it breathes. On the palate, it is very juicy and textural, with a chalky texture and a white-fleshed fruit finish. The length is medium.
Pierre Amadieu Domaine Grand Romane, Clairette (100%)
Warm and spicy aromas of marzipan, caramel, nougat, and some green notes, along with acacia, yellow fruit, grapefruit, and fennel. The nose is herbaceous and complex, evolving with air. On the palate, the wine is very salty with fine herbal notes, a taut structure, herbal-medicinal qualities, pine, and intense acidity. White pepper and a touch of alcohol contribute to the structure and length.
