Languedoc: Going From Red to White. With a Few Exceptions

While red wines are generally experiencing significant slowdown, dynamic companies in Languedoc-Roussillon are maintaining sales and even recording some encouraging growth.

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The headquarters of Calmel & Joseph at the organic Domaine de la Madone near Carcassonne. The winery is strongly orientated towards red wines and yet is still successful.  (Photo: Calmel & Joseph)
The headquarters of Calmel & Joseph at the organic Domaine de la Madone near Carcassonne. The winery is strongly orientated towards red wines and yet is still successful. (Photo: Calmel & Joseph)

A telling chart from the Fédération Intersud de France highlights the trends of the three wine categories, red, white and pink between 2016 and 2024, combining the volumes of AOP and IGP wines from Languedoc-Roussillon. In 2016, reds accounted for 53%, rosés for 25%, and white wines for 22%. Since then, the share of reds has steadily declined, reaching just 40% in 2024. In just eight years, their total market share has dropped by 13%, losing almost a quarter of its volume. This decrease has been largely absorbed by rosé, which grew from 25% in 2016 to 33% in 2024, while white wines increased from 22% to 27% over the same period.

“Unfortunately, Roussillon is no exception,” says Anne-Laure Pellet, director of the CIVR wine association. “Like most wine regions producing red wine, we’re facing a drastic drop in sales volumes. There has been a 35% decline in dry red wine sales in Roussillon (AOP and IGP) over five years (2023 to 2018). And the decline is accelerating.”

“We are seeing growing demand for fresher and lighter red wines."

Overall, including all AOPs across the three wine categories, Languedoc's exports between May 2023 and April 2024 lost 13.5% in volume, with 356,465 hl shipped, and 14.3% in value, totaling €192m, compared to the previous year. The region is facing massive upheaval.
 

Decline and Solutions

The decline in demand for red wine has multiple causes. Jean-Claude Mas, owner of Domaines Paul Mas, attributes it in part to the reduction in exports to China. Additionally, he notes a shift in the consumption of white, and rosé wines in markets that have traditionally focused on red wine. The rise of new-consumers is becoming increasingly important. "Only quality wines with a distinctive style, unmistakable authenticity, true taste appeal, and a fair price can thrive in a highly competitive market where societal trends sometimes clash with the cultural heritage of wine," says Mas.

Surprisingly, Eastern European countries are becoming increasingly active.

At the same time, demand for white wines is increasing. "However, this trend has been ongoing for some time," notes Heidi Van den Akker, Export Manager at Calmel & Joseph. "We listen closely to the various markets because 85% of our business is in export." Surprisingly, Eastern European countries are becoming increasingly active. The war in Russia and Ukraine has led to the relocation of industrial production to other Eastern countries such as Estonia, Lithuania, Poland, and Romania. This shift has resulted in growing wine demand among the populations in these regions. "With our structure, which operates both as a producer and a trader, we can adapt to market shifts," emphasizes Van den Akker. "When we see one region becoming more challenging, we pivot to another. We are managing things almost on a daily basis." Thanks to this flexibility, the company, which is primarily specialized in red wine, continues to operate successfully.
 

Style and color shift

Gérard Bertrand now cultivates 17 of his own vineyards in Occitania using biodynamic methods.
Gérard Bertrand now cultivates 17 of his own vineyards in Occitania using biodynamic methods.
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Reading time: 6m 15s

Languedoc instead of Provence

Since the founding of Domaines Paul Mas in 2000, the vineyard has been evenly split between white and red grapes, each accounting for 49%, with 2% dedicated to gray varieties. "Over the past ten years, however, the share of grapes vinified into red wine has decreased from 48% to 32%, while rosé production has experienced significant growth, now representing 17% of our total volume," explains Jean-Claude Mas. In the IGP category, Languedoc offers a great alternative for rosé compared to the higher-priced wines from Provence, says Ralf Weilbächer. Gérard Bertrand emphasizes that his rosés continue to perform remarkably well in the market.

IGP Terres du Midi

As of October 6, 2023, Languedoc-Roussillon now has a new Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP), which applies to blended wines in all three colours across the entire wine-growing region. The goal is to elevate the status of traditional blends, which have struggled to compete with single-variety IGP wines. In the first four months of 2024, IGP Terres du Midi recorded a 37% increase in volume, reaching 13,000 hl, and a 12% increase in value, totaling about €2m. However, the average price per liter dropped from €1.79 during the same period last year to €1.48.

Anne-Laure Pellet has been director of the CIVR wine association for five years.
Anne-Laure Pellet has been director of the CIVR wine association for five years.

Pierre Bories points to a unique phenomenon. On one hand, the Baby Boomer generation is significantly responsible for the declining demand for wine, as they are becoming more health-conscious. On the other hand, this same generation represents a large portion of winemakers, many of whom are now looking to retire, but there is a shortage of younger successors.

Jean-Claude Mas founded Domaines Paul Mas in 2002, today one of the best-known wine producers in France.
Jean-Claude Mas founded Domaines Paul Mas in 2002, today one of the best-known wine producers in France.
Pierre Bories, new president of the Languedoc wine association.
Pierre Bories, new president of the Languedoc wine association.

Focus on climate change

In response to climate change, the first regional technical cluster, "Vigne et Vin," was established at the end of May to consolidate research and approaches. Anne-Laure Pellet outlines three key areas of focus. First, technical support for producers in Roussillon, ranging from climate forecasting to various practical vineyard actions to cope with drought. Second, research into grape varieties, conducted in Roussillon by Vinopole. Third, financial aid for winemakers during crisis periods. The question of irrigation remains, as only 5% of vineyards in Roussillon are currently irrigated, compared to 20–30% in Languedoc. Broader projects will take medium- to long-term efforts. Despite current challenges, Daniel Freund from Germany views Languedoc as a dynamic and innovative region, providing the trade with compelling stories and strong sales arguments. "In particular, Languedoc is becoming increasingly prominent on the French map, especially in specialty retail." André Dominé

Pierre Bories, New President of CIVL

"I accepted the role of president of the CIVL because I am convinced that the current crisis, driven by the decline in production due to climate change, presents an extraordinary opportunity for the wines of Languedoc.

Why? We will produce less because we must adapt to the climate. The structural crisis of overproduction that Languedoc has experienced will be alleviated by these climatic challenges. I believe Languedoc is well-positioned to capture a significant share of the international market in the coming years.

We have a competitive advantage with organic farming, which is easier to implement in our region. While the lack of rainfall is concerning, we experience fewer harvest losses compared to other regions—whether from mildew, hail, or frost. This, combined with lower production costs in the vineyard, gives us a strong competitive edge."

Insights

The French are drinking less wine - including rosé which had been enjoying spectacular growth. Exports of pink wine have fallen too.

Reading time: 6m 45s

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