Bright Spots Amid Challenges in the Rhône

Despite numerous difficulties and a challenging year, the new vintage is bringing renewed optimism to the Rhône.

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View of Mont Ventoux: The share of white wines in the AOP has doubled in the last ten years.
View of Mont Ventoux: The share of white wines in the AOP has doubled in the last ten years.

The 2024 vintage is one to remember—for both winemakers who faced countless hurdles to shape it and the future consumers who will enjoy it,” says Damien Gilles, president of the Syndicate of Côtes du Rhône. “It embodies the essence, the DNA, of the Côtes du Rhône with well-balanced alcohol levels and fine, fruity wines offering exceptional drinkability.”

“The 2024 vintage was truly challenging,” notes Frédéric Chaudière, president of AOC Ventoux. “In the end, yields are relatively low, primarily due to the impact of spring frosts. But the quality is astonishing! The grapes achieved excellent ripeness, accompanied by slightly lower-than-usual alcohol levels. Certain varieties, especially Syrah and Roussanne, are expressing themselves exceptionally well.”

Louis Barruol, president of the Gigondas appellation, adds that these are undoubtedly the most balanced wines since the 2020 vintage.

The AOP Saint-Joseph, according to Michel Chapoutier, benefited from sunny days in August.
The AOP Saint-Joseph, according to Michel Chapoutier, benefited from sunny days in August.

As with much of the wine world, red wines remain a concern. "There is a decline in demand for red wines in France and internationally," confirms Xavier de Carmejane, export consultant for Vignerons du Mont Ventoux. "However, our red wine sales in the German market remain stable." A new, attractive cuvée primarily made with Cinsault is expected to spark renewed interest.

Encouraging signs come from the Rhône's export figures for Germany during the period from January to August 2024. Over these eight months, 35,000 hectoliters worth €14.6m were exported, marking an 18% increase in volume. On the flip side, the value declined by 1%. The Rhône Crus experienced a notable drop, while the more affordable regional appellations saw significant growth. This still serves as a clear sign of the continued popularity of Rhône wines.

"There is a decline in demand for red wines in France and internationally."

The President of the Côtes du Rhône Syndicate considers the 2024 vintage to be memorable.
The President of the Côtes du Rhône Syndicate considers the 2024 vintage to be memorable.

Overall, Rhône wine production in 2023 totaled around 2.4m hl, a decrease of 11% compared to the average of the past five years. Of this, 74% was red wine, 14% rosé, and 12% white wine. Red wine production dropped by 9% compared to the previous year, and rosé decreased by 6%. Only white wine saw growth, rising by 9% in volume.
 

Goal: more white wine

In 2023, the Rhône Valley faced challenges in terms of sales, whether due to the significant cost increases for wineries, inflation, or changing consumption patterns. However, not every producer was affected in the same way. "The decline in red wine consumption was accompanied by an increase in the consumption and therefore production of whites and rosés," stated the Famille Perrin. "In Germany, La Vieille Ferme stood out with the remarkable performance of its highly popular cuvées. La Vieille Ferme has taken the lead in our portfolio, experiencing unprecedented growth in the German market."

Philippe Pellaton, President of InterRhône, reminded attendees at this year's Wine Paris of the goal to establish the Rhône Valley as a major producer of white wines in the minds of European and North American professionals. When it comes to overall deliveries from cellars in 2023, white wines were the only category to show an increase. In the AOP Ventoux, the share of white wines has doubled over the past decade, now making up 8.3% of the production.

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Reading time: 8m

Innovation in the Rhône Valley

As of September 2024, Viognier and Vermentino (Rolle), once considered supplementary grape varieties often bottled as IGP wines, have been promoted to main varieties alongside Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, and Clairette. This move is expected to provide a further boost to the region's white wines.

"On one hand, consumer demand for white wines is growing rapidly, and on the other, the Rhône Valley has traditionally been a region focused on red wines."

Laudun, on the right bank, has been elevated to the 18th Cru of the Rhône Valley starting with the 2024 vintage, following a 2013 application. This recognition is largely attributed to the region's white wines, which make up nearly a third of its production, establishing Laudun as the largest white wine terroir in the Côtes du Rhône Villages.

At Rhonéa, two key observations inspired an innovative approach, as explained by Valérie Vincent, Marketing and Communications Director: "On one hand, consumer demand for white wines is growing rapidly, and on the other, the Rhône Valley has traditionally been a region focused on red wines. Restructuring vineyards takes time." To respond quickly to consumer demand, Rhonéa decided to create a Blanc de Noirs. The wine, named Paradoxe, is made from 60% Caladoc, 25% Grenache, and 15% Cinsault. It offers a nose of white, red, and citrus fruits, and a palate with a pleasant structure and fresh finish, making it very popular among customers.

Best Export Markets for Rhône Wine in 2023

By Volume:

  1. Belgium 144,345 hl -8% (18% share)
  2. UK 118,110 hl -13% (15% share)
  3. USA 104,444 hl -17% (13% share)
  4. Canada 77,081 hl +1% (10% share)
  5. Germany 62,786 hl -3% (8% share)

By Value:

  1. USA €98m -16%
  2. UK €79m -9%
  3. Belgium €60m -7%
  4. Canada €51m -5%
  5. Germany €34m -4%

Preparing for climate change 

The wine association InterRhône is taking proactive measures to address climate change across multiple areas. The Rhodanien Institute is focused on understanding the relationship between terroirs and grape varieties, creating detailed soil maps for various regions. This initiative aims to guide winemakers on where and how to plant and cultivate crops to effectively adapt to the impacts of climate change. Additionally, experiments with new grape varieties have been launched. Since 2022, four varieties have been allowed for trial in the AOP Côtes du Rhône: the PIWIs Vidoc and Floréal, which are resistant to Downy and Powdery Mildew, and Carignan Blanc and Rolle for their strong adaptation to changing climate conditions.

A particular focus is on studying Grenache, the flagship variety of the southern Rhône Valley, to better understand how it responds to climate change and optimize its cultivation for the future.

Wineries, traders, and cooperatives have been active for years in increasing their sustainability and addressing both current and future climate challenges. "This issue is very important to us," say the Perrins. "It has been part of our family philosophy for many years and is now being implemented through vineyard practices, reducing the weight of our bottles and packaging, agroforestry, developing eco-built structures, and investing in renewable energy."

Economic sustainability

"There is a decline in demand for red wines," says Xavier de Carmejane, Export Consultant, Vignerons du Mont Ventoux.
"There is a decline in demand for red wines," says Xavier de Carmejane, Export Consultant, Vignerons du Mont Ventoux.

The wines Les Biosphères Seasons Luberon Blanc and Rosé are new to Germany. The first is fresh, mineral, with citrus notes from five white varieties, led by Rolle. The second, with 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, is beautifully pale, appealing with red fruit and excellent liveliness.

In light of climate change, the focus is on developing strong adaptability. At Marrenon, they are testing grape varieties best suited to current climatic developments. However, General Director Philippe Tolleret consistently emphasizes the importance of building a strong brand with high standards of style and quality. Only by doing so can dynamic and economically profitable viticulture be maintained. "This helps preserve the unique landscapes of the Luberon, admired worldwide, and ensures that young winemakers can continue to establish themselves in a secure model." André Dominé

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One of the most prestigious appellations in the southern Rhône has now been granted permission to produce white wine. What’s the story behind this new white Cru from the Rhône, and how do these new wines perform?

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