A seemingly minor amendment in an EU official journal has stirred controversy in Andalusia. On September 30, 2024, an EU Commission delegated regulation introduced a change to ‘authorized oenological practices,’ allowing the production of Spanish liqueur wines with protected designation of origin (PDO) from the regions of Condado de Huelva, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry, Lebrija, Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Málaga, and Montilla-Moriles, ‘where the actual alcoholic strength by volume of the wine concerned is less than 15% vol., but not less than 14% vol.’
While the industry had historically advocated for the approval of Finos and Manzanillas from the Jerez and Montilla-Moriles PDOs with alcohol content below the previously mandated 15% ABV, the EU's liberalization has caught producers off guard, according to a February 10 report in ‘Diario de Sevilla.’
Without sensory impact?
The EU's decision to lower Sherry's minimum alcohol content has sparked debate, with producers questioning the potential impact on the wine's sensory qualities. This move preempts the results of a three-year study conducted by the Innofino working group, which involves the regulatory councils of Marco de Jerez and Montilla-Moriles, researchers from the Universities of Cádiz and Córdoba, and prominent wineries like González Byass, Williams & Humbert, and Yuste. The study aims to determine if lowering the alcohol content to 14% will affect the quality and organoleptic properties of Sherry.
César Saldaña, President of the Marco de Jerez Regulatory Council, expressed surprise at the EU's decision, stating that it "jumped the gun" on the study's findings. The Council has decided to await the study's completion before making any changes to the regulations for the affected regions.
This isn't the first time Sherry's alcohol content has been adjusted. In the 1990s, a reduction from the then-current 15.5% ABV for Finos and Manzanillas was approved. In 2008, a further reduction to 14% ABV was proposed, partly due to consumer preference for lower-alcohol wines. ‘Diario de Sevilla’ also highlights potential cost savings from using less brandy for fortification and potential tax benefits, as it could mitigate the impact of UK tax increases that primarily affect higher-alcohol wines. SP
