“Consumers are hooked by tales and stories. The problem for the small winemaker is that they have to do everything, and whilst they may be 'at one' with the land, the idea of talking about themselves or standing in front of loads of people hand selling their 'baby' can be as gut wrenching as it is intimidating. So what's the answer? Get rid of all the small producers, homogenise the hell out of wine and hire a load of target driven sales people? God, I hope not.”
This comment by wine communicator Kate Wardell in her vinitudewine blog caught my attention because it neatly expressed what I’ve heard so many other people say. Essentially it implies that people who care about wine should sympathise with ‘small winemakers’ who hate ‘hand-selling’ their wine or having a ‘sales target’.
Reading it reminded me of the scenes in David Attenborough wildlife programmes in which a starving lioness stalks an impala. Of course you don’t want the carnivorous big cat to kill the gentle herbivore, but nor do you want to see the gorgeous little lion cubs die of hunger. It’s why we all love panda conservation areas where the money from our entrance tickets helps fund the bamboo for the animals to eat, and fencing and guards to keep them safe from predators.
But here’s the thing. Unless we were born to wealthy parents or have made a fortune as adults, most of us aren’t pandas with people to look after us. We’re lions or impalas that, if they are going to survive, have to be good at the chores of finding stuff to eat and, in the case of the impalas, avoiding becoming another animal’s supper.
So, yes, of course we can sympathise with the lovely winemaker who prefers not to do any marketing or selling – but only if we have the same feelings about the talented actors and musicians who won’t turn up for auditions. Or the gifted authors who prefer not to hawk their words to agents or publishers, Or the artists who never leave their garrets. Men and women who don't have any kind of 'sales target' – even if it's only one gig, or one canvas that will bring in the money for the rent and some food.
We can admire their skills and their dedication to their craft.
Except, of course, we can’t, because we’ve probably never heard of any of them.
The views and opinions expressed in the Devil's Advocate pieces are those of the writer, and do not necessarily reflect the views or positions of the publication. They are intended to provoke discussion and debate. If you would like to offer your own response to this or any other article, please email the editor-in-chief, Anja Zimmer at zimmer@meininger.de.
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