Devil's Advocate: For Heaven's Sake, Please Stop Talking Terroir

Imagine, if you will, a two-hour long television talent competition, like America’s Got Talent. Except, this one is different. Every contestant sings their own version of the same song. As they will do in the next broadcast and the ones after that.

Now walk around Wine Paris or ProWein or Vinitaly and ask a random selection of producers what is special about their wine. A high proportion will reply that it ‘reflects the terroir’ of its location. 

Singing the same song.

Except, unlike the talent show participants, the winemakers haven’t even chosen a melody and lyrics that most of the audience will find particular popular or catchy. 

Indeed, numerous surveys have placed it low on most wine drinkers’ set of priorities when it is included as an option. But, in  the real world, it would rank far, far lower. How often have any wine retailers or sommeliers been asked for 'a wine that reflects its terroir'? And how often do many wine people give serious thought to the terroir-expression of their cup of tea or coffee?

Whilst they may differ over specific styles and flavours, most people primarily want a beverage that tastes good to them for a price they find reasonable.

To be fair to the terroirists, however, they are encouraged to take this line because so many professionals - especially wine writers - seem happy to hear about the gravel or the limestone and the wind from the north. Some even take notes.
 

Not talking terroir

Terroir - the complex combination of soil, aspect, altitude, microclimate, grape variety and winemaking tradition - may be as fascinating to winemakers as the appearance and personality of their children. It may similarly be of interest to their friends and families, and to those wine writers who need to find ways to fill their 2,000-word blogs or articles. But, let’s face it, terroir is not a word or a concept most normal people have ever heard of, let alone use. They are not sitting in restaurants and around dining tables, glass in hand, discussing chalk and clay and south- versus north-facing vines, wind directions or the differences in temperatures and UV light to be found between 400 and 100 metres. 

If they are talking about the wine at all (which few are doing beyond momentarily) they’re far more likely sharing their views on whether it is light or powerful, soft or tough, fresh or dull, sweet or dry, oaky or not.

But still, the winemakers go on singing the terroir song.

Don’t misunderstand me: I believe in terroir, just as I believe in the importance of genetics, upbringing and education. I just don’t want everyone I meet to tell me how proud they are to reflect their own specific background.

Unless, of course, it is remarkably different. Iike the experiences of the Kosovan I met today, who arrived in Germany at the age of 18 with €30 in his pocket, after escaping being drafted to fight on the ‘wrong’ side in the conflict in former Yugoslavia. The story of how he got from working in bars for minimum wage, or less, to become a highly successful restaurateur fascinated me. But it wasn’t the first thing he told me. And, it came in answer to my question.
 

Bones, coins and Bardot

If your vineyard looks truly spectacular (rarely the case, to be brutally frank) or is full of dinosaur bones or Roman coins, or once belonged to Brigitte Bardot or was in a famous movie, you’re lucky to have the kind of terroir normal people really will want to hear about - though they won’t use the ’T’ word.

Otherwise, unless you know you're talking to a geek, here’s my advice: stop banging on about it. The people you’re talking to may nod politely, as they did when your neighbours all used almost precisely the same words about how their wines reflect their terroir which, if you’re really honest, may not be that different to yours, but they'll rarely be that impressed or interested.

Put yourself in the shoes of the real contestants in a real TV talent show. Think about the effort they make to choose the song they believe will make the jaded judges look up and pay genuine attention to what they are hearing. Like them, you may only have a few moments to create your impression - and to present something potential customers might want to buy, rather than something you want to talk about. Make those moments count.