Wine has an 8,000 history as an honest, natural, healthy, convivial beverage. That’s the simple narrative we are all supposed to be promoting.
Stronger than you think
So what should we do about the way we – specifically in the US, Australia and New Zealand – communicate its alcoholic strength? I'm talking about the 1.5% tolerance that allows a 15% wine produced and sold in those countries to be legally sold with 13.5% on its label. In South Africa and Russia, the tolerance is 1%, but almost everywhere else including South America and Europe it’s 0.5%. For Australians to respond - as two did to me - that it was simply a matter of their government not having got round to amending old legislation is not good enough. And nor is the fact that it is only customers in their domestic market who are being potentially misled. Why can’t they, New Zealanders and Americans play by the same rules at home and abroad as the Austrians, Turks and Argentines? And why is it okay for professionals to talk about 'lab shopping' as a description for seeking out laboratories that will deliver the lowest ABV readings?
Secretly sweet
And, while European authorities have belatedly imposed ingredient and nutritional listing on wines sold in the EU, why has this taken so long to happen? And why have producers elsewhere (including the 1.5% nations mentioned above) not shown any great willingness to follow suit? Why shouldn’t a wine drinker who wants to limit their sugar intake be able to see how much of it there is in their glass of red or white?
Not what it seems
To return to a point I have made in the past, why is it also permitted for 15-25% of a wine, depending on the country – one glass per bottle or more – to be of a different region, grape variety and/or vintage to the one on the label? I’m a great fan of multi-varietal, -vintage and -regional blending, but why shouldn’t there be a requirement to reveal that it has taken place – and the components that have been used?
Frankly, unless and until the industry is ready to answer these simple questions and become a lot more open in the way it talks to its customers, I don’t think it is in any fit state to stand up against the 'clean-wine' snake-oil salesmen and the WHO and anti-alcohol lobbyists.
The views and opinions expressed in the Devil's Advocate pieces are those of the writer, and do not necessarily reflect the views or positions of the publication. They are intended to provoke discussion and debate. If you would like to offer your own response to this or any other article, please email the editor-in-chief, Anja Zimmer at zimmer@meininger.de.
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