Austria Takes a Leading Role with PIWIS – ‘Pioneering Wines’

Recently-created resistant PIWI – ‘pioneering wine’ –  grape varieties that take their name from the German term pilzwiderstandsfähig (fungus-resistant), are increasingly seen by viticulturists as a viable solution to emerging environmental and climatic challenges.

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Vineyards in the Traisental, Niederösterreich (Photo: ÖWM/WSNA)
Vineyards in the Traisental, Niederösterreich (Photo: ÖWM/WSNA)
Muscaris (Photo: ÖWM/WSNA)
Muscaris (Photo: ÖWM/WSNA)

Pioneers in Pioneering Wines

Winegrowers in Styria and Lower Austria began cultivating PIWI grape varieties as early as the 2000s. Especially in areas with periodic heavy rainfall and steep or small-scale vineyards, PIWIs have proven to be ideal. Today, the pioneers of this movement possess a significant advantage in experience and knowledge both in viticulture and vinification. They frequently share their expertise and are in close contact with each other, passing on their experiences to colleagues looking to plant PIWIs for the first time. 

The market for PIWI wines has also expanded. While these wines were once primarily sold directly from cellar doors or through small wine stores and organic specialty shops, this has now changed significantly. It has become clear that these wines can be just as sophisticated and age-worthy as those vinified from traditional grape varieties. Austrian estates are also finding success in exporting PIWI wines, with the country’s strong environmental consciousness playing a significant role.
 

Newly Classified

Souvignier Gris, Muscaris Blütenmuskateller, Donauveltliner and Donauriesling – along with the red varieties Roesler and Rathay, which were bred at the Teaching and Research Centre for Viticulture and Pomology in Klosterneuburg – are classified as Qualitätswein – quality - grape varieties. These wines with EU-protected designation of origin can always be recognized by the red-white-red capsule tops and the official quality wine control number on the label.

Additionally, other PIWIs such as Cabernet Blanc Johanniter, are authorised for production of ‘wine without protected designation of origin or geographical indication.’ Currently, some 900 hectares in Austria are planted with PIWI varieties, and this figure is growing. Initial scepticism is gradually giving way to greater open-mindedness, and those growers who believed in these varieties early-on are now showcasing multiple PIWI vintages. Looking forward into the future indicates that embracing new ideas can pay handsomely, and that there will continue to be many delicious wines to enjoy.

To delve deeper into the subject, visit austrianvineyards.com.

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Austria is certainly full of surprises. In this small, dynamic land of many wines, a very lively sparkling scene has developed around the designation of origin Sekt Austria.

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