Anyone who has toured Austria’s winegrowing regions will likely recall the picturesque mosaic of vines that line the Danube in Niederösterreich and girdle the capital Vienna to the east. Or they may remember the enchanting rolling hills of the Steiermark, as well as the contrasting topographies of Burgenland, from the plains surrounding Lake Neusiedl to the gentle elevations that grace the landscape with such charming vineyards.
Family estates lead the way with environmentally conscious viticulture
Some 10,000 wine producers collectively cultivate a vineyard area of approximately 44,210 hectares. The average size of these estates is relatively small, reflecting the fine-grained structure of the entire winegrowing landscape. Most are family-run businesses, where viticulture has been a tradition for generations, deeply rooted in nature. Many have committed to principles of environmental consciousness that integrate ecological, economic and social responsibility. To earn the ‘Sustainable Austria’ certification, wine estates must meet more than 380 defined requirements, covering everything from vineyard management to the weight of the bottles.
The vineyard as a place of relaxation
Austria’s organically certified vineyard area has grown to 10,432 hectares, with 14% farmed biodynamically. This places Austria among the international leaders in environmentally conscious viticulture. Conservation of resources and minimising carbon footprints are key motivations behind this commitment to responsible wine production. In practice, it also involves nurturing a cultural landscape, since dry stone walls, shrubs, numerous fruit trees and flower strips in vineyards provide vital habitats for diverse flora and fauna. This setting benefits both nature and wine – but also people. Residents and visitors alike use these idyllic wine regions for relaxation, enjoying walks, hikes or cycling tours. Here, the wine experience extends far beyond the pleasures in the glass.
Quality Over Quantity
The patchwork nature of Austria’s vineyards promotes biodiversity and discourages large-scale production. However, this is hardly an issue in a wine culture deeply steeped in tradition, where mass production is not the goal. Instead, winegrowers strive tirelessly to express the unique flavours of grapes and physical origins in their wines.
Many are dedicated to preserving rare indigenous grape varieties such as Roter Veltliner, Rotgipfler, Zierfandler, Neuburger or Blauer Wildbacher, which are increasingly gaining recognition alongside the renowned and more familiar Grüner Veltliner, Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt. International trust in Austrian wine also sparks interest in wines made from these rare varieties. What ends up in the glass is valued as something extraordinary and valuable – cultivated and vinified with devotion.
Challenging Climate
Austrian winegrowers’ commitment to ecological vineyard management is neither a given nor an easy task. The country’s diverse topography creates a wide range of mesoclimates, and some of the most challenging in the world. Knowledge of the microclimatic and geologic conditions of the vineyards has often been passed down through generations and is essential for successful, enduring management. Many vineyards are adjacent to forests or are situated on steep slopes or sharply inclined terraced hillsides. Together with the influences of the continental climate, these conditions create cool nocturnal airflows that help preserve the acidity in the grapes. This results in the freshness and drinkability that make Austrian wines so popular worldwide.
Pioneering Work with PIWIs
Austrian winegrowers are not only leaders in environmentally conscious viticulture but also in the cultivation of fungus-resistant grape varieties (PIWIs). Particularly in Niederösterreich and the Steiermark, PIWIs have been cultivated since the early 2000s, with their area under vines steadily increasing.
Some have already been classified as Qualitätswein varieties, including Souvignier Gris, Muscaris, Blütenmuskateller, Donauveltliner and Donauriesling for white wines, Roesler and Rathay for reds. Additionally, other PIWIs like Cabernet Blanc and Johanniter are permitted for ‘wines without a protected designation of origin or geographical indication.’ Initially sceptical, consumer attitudes have shifted to greater openness, as these wines are now recognised for their complexity, cellaring potential and environmental benefits. Austrian growers are gaining international acclaim with PIWI wines, reflecting the nation’s high environmental awareness.
Origins in the Spotlight
Austria’s focus on wine origins, formalised more than 20 years ago through the DAC classification system, laid the foundation for its environmentally conscious approach. Niederösterreich, Burgenland, Steiermark and Wien (Vienna) are the key generic wine regions. They are subdivided into 17 specific winegrowing districts, each with clearly defined primary grape varieties and stylistic guidelines. This creates a solid connection between the wines and their places of origin, emphasising the bond between grape and terroir, with tradition at its core. One visible hallmark of these wines, protected under EU designation of origin regulations, is the red-white-red band on the bottle cap coupled with the official quality wine control number on the label.