In a wine-world filled with globally recognised grape varieties, Austria has carved out a unique position for itself thanks to its indigenous vines like Grüner Veltliner and Blaufränkisch. But behind these renowned grapes lies an additional force of ‘local heroes’, which bring a rich history and exciting flavours to every glass.
Recently, there’s been a substantial revival of Roter Veltliner, a white grape variety unrelated to Grüner Veltliner. It’s primarily found throughout Niederösterreich, with the winegrowing region Wagram as its main place of cultivation. The history of Roter Veltliner dates back to Roman times, when the legionnaires introduced the vine along the Danube.
This charming and approachable variety offers notes of baked apple, balanced acidity and smooth drinkability. Alongside Heunisch and Traminer, it is one of Central Europe’s ancient varieties and figures as a parent of Neuburger, Rotgipfler, Zierfandler and Frühroter Veltliner, all of which are still cultivated in Austria by winegrowers dedicated to tradition.
Royal Favourites
When discussing indigenous grape varieties in Austria, it is essential to mention the winegrowing region Thermenregion, located south of Vienna. Here, Rotgipfler and Zierfandler thrive; these are both white wine varieties once widespread in the Habsburg monarchy’s crownlands and popular at the Viennese court. Zierfandler (not to be confused with California’s Zinfandel) is a natural cross between Roter Veltliner and a Traminer-like grape. It is full-bodied with harmoniously balanced acidity, featuring aromas ranging from pineapple and citrus to dried fruits and wildflowers. Rotgipfler, derived from a natural cross between Traminer and Roter Veltliner, is originally from Lower Austria, with the first records dating back to 1837. Its style is generally rich, with subtle acidity and a delicate bouquet reminiscent of melon and juicy pears, maturing with bottle-age into flavours of baked apple and roasted walnuts.
The Wachau’s Foundling
The Wachau Valley is home to a rare white variety, Neuburger. The saying goes that in the 19th century, two growers found a bundle of grapevines on the banks of the Danube river and planted cuttings in a vineyard called Burgberg (also known as 1000-Eimerberg). Over time, this new variety became known as Neuburger, meaning "newcomer from Burgberg." Genetic research has since revealed that Roter Veltliner and Silvaner are its parent varieties. Today, Neuburger is primarily grown in Niederösterreich and Burgenland
All the grapes mentioned are native to Austria and of EU-protected designation of origin, which you can always spot by the red-white-red capsule tops and the official quality wine check number on the label. Cultivating these rare, autochthonous grape varieties often involves additional effort and requires specialised knowledge and experience for winegrowers. Economic reward is not the primary motivation; rather, it is a commitment to preserving a long tradition and maintaining biodiversity – an effort that, moreover, offers an extremely satisfying drinking experience.
