Some 70 kilometers of roads, a big mountain and deep lake lie between Kir-Yianni’s two estates in northern Greece. And yet, at first glance, the two vineyards are worlds apart. One is in the green, enchanted hills of Naoussa, which meanders gently from the mountain towards the plain. On a clear day you can see as far as Thessaloniki. The other is in Amyndeon, a barren plateau with sandy soil at 700 meters above sea level, between two lakes, surrounded by rugged mountain peaks.
Versatile Xinomavro
What both regions have in common is the most important grape variety – Xinomavro, which translates loosely as “sour black”. And yet they are different. The dense, dark, complex Xinomavro from Naoussa and its powerful tannins are famous, yet it is never a heavy wine due to its omnipresent lively, incisive acidity. Kir-Yianni has perfected Naoussa Xinomavro in the wines from the Ramnista single vineyard, which translates as “royal hill”. In the constant struggle for perfection, the site was deconstructed, divided into 42 individual blocks, these then analyzed separately and the best then selected for each vintage in order to produce Ramnista.
The Ramnista crus were first produced in 2011, single variety wines in very limited quantities from the best blocks. These wines not only have massive potential for ageing, they need it to reveal their full glory. The 2013 vintage is currently available and if you have the chance to try one of the 2013 Ramnista crus (Limni, Siniaki and Cyclamina), you absolutely must, as it will be difficult to find a better Naoussa Xinomavro.
But tastes and trends change and the long-forgotten Amyndeon region is increasingly booming, thanks to winegrowers like Stellios Boutaris, who established a complete new vineyard here as an extension of Kir-Yianni, and shone the spotlight on Amyndeon’s completely different Xinomavro. Paler, lighter, more playful, more Burgundian in style and fruitier. And also suitable for making sparkling and rosé wines. If you try Kir-Yianni’s wines, both from Naoussa and Amyndeon, you will understand the Xinomavro grape variety’s simply endless versatility.
The PDO guidelines do not always make it easy to exploit the variety’s wide-ranging potential. A sparkling wine from Amyndeon must contain at least 17 grams/liter residual sugar, for example, if it wants to be classed as a PDO wine. Otherwise it is just classed as “wine of Greece”. Kir-Yianni has, however, started a sparkling wine project in Amyndeon, producing brut sparkling wine from Xinomavro grapes, using traditional bottle fermentation, under the Scaperdas Frères brand.
Maintain tradition
It is evident from very specific vineyards that there is a long tradition of Xinomavro in Amyndeon too. Some plots contain ancient Xinomavro vines, goblet-trained, gnarled, thick stems, some planted in 1930 and even before. They were spared the phylloxera disaster thanks to the sandy soil, so it was possible to plant non-grafted vines here. Kir-Yianni has committed to preserving these historic vineyards and, not entirely altruistically, pays above-average rates for grapes to motivate the winegrowers not to relinquish these plots.
“It doesn’t matter how difficult a year it has been, these old vines always produce consistent quantity and quality”, explains the winemaker. The old grapes are vinified separately. The wine is called “Kali Riza” – a prime example of Amyndeon Xinomavro’s subtle elegance.
The story of Kir-Yianni itself is very traditional, yet also very much one of innovation. The wine estate itself is relatively new, being established in 1997 by Yiannis Boutaris, who gave Kir-Yianni its name. Kir-Yianni just means “Mr Yiannis”. Yiannis Boutaris, who sadly passed away in November 2024, was, however, the scion of an historic Greek wine dynasty – his forebears bottled the first Naoussa wines as long ago as 1879. The wine rebel wanted to blaze his own trail, however, founded Kir-Yianni and laid the foundations for the wine family tradition to continue under new leadership.
In 2004 he placed the wine estate’s fate in the hands of his sons Stellios Boutaris (winemaker and CEO) and Mihalis Boutaris (vineyard management), now the fifth generation of winemakers. Shortly after completing his degree, Stellios’s son, another Yiannis Boutaris, joined Kir-Yianni, and is largely responsible for Kir-Yianni’s third project: the Sigalas estate on Santorini. The sixth generation is already chomping at the bit.
Clear philosophy and lasting commitment
Kir-Yianni’s philosophy has always been strict – maintain the inherited traditions, yet always be receptive to innovation. Always experiment, always strive to be better, and yet continue to produce “every-day” wines for the average consumer, mainly under the Paranga brand, in addition to premium cult wines such as Ramnista. Stellios Boutaris also feels that finding and promoting local talent is a major and important part of his job, as the best workers are important for the present and future of a wine estate and a whole region.
At Kir-Yianni the drive to preserve a regional inheritance extends beyond wine. Back in 1992, Yiannis Boutaris founded the “Arcturos” NGO project, which is dedicated to protecting a total of nine species of animal that are under threat in northern Greece, including lynx and bear.
The effects of climate change that are also clearly visible in Naoussa and Amyndeon have motivated Kir-Yianni to be heavily committed to sustainability. It has also been a member of the International Wineries for Climate Action (IWCA) sustainability initiative since 2024, the very first Greek wine producer, and is also the first winery in Greece to set its own CO2 footprint.
Natural hedges, mixed forest and 500 olive trees compensate for emissions. The volume of CO2 emissions per liter of wine produced is well below the average for IWCA wineries. Kir-Yianni is also part of the Regenerative Viticulture Foundation and is committed to regenerative cultivation methods for ideal soil health.
Research and optimize
Kir-Yianni respects tradition, but time does not stand still there. It is constantly researching and working towards producing the perfect wine from the perfect soil. The vineyards are divided into small plots, the soil analyzed, different clones used, plant density varied, micro-vinification developed, there is experimentation with organic and biodynamic practices, and also with traditional vine training systems, such as the lyre. The winery also experiments with vinification techniques, such as cement eggs, what are known as “cigar barrels” (somewhat bigger and longer than the usual barriques), and mash fermentation for white Rhoditis, all of which are showing highly promising results. It will be exciting to see what appears on the market next.
Even if half the vineyards are stocked with Xinomavro and every aspect of winemaking using this grape variety is being constantly perfected, Kir-Yianni is also experimenting with other grape varieties and has already firmly established some of them. In Naoussa they stick with the red wine grapes: international varieties Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are found here alongside Xinomavro. Amyndeon, which is three degrees cooler on average, grows some white varieties in addition to Xinomavro, Syrah and Merlot. There are international varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc and Viognier, as well as Gewürztraminer, which is a rarity in Greece.
But there are also white Greek varieties, such as Rhoditis and Malagousia, and now a variety that is preparing to become Kir-Yianni’s second signature grape – Assyrtiko.
On the one hand, Kir-Yianni purchased the Sigalas winery and produces Assyrtiko there in its home on Santorini. On the other, Kir-Yianni has also planted Assyrtiko in Amyndeon and established a cool climate style for the grape here. “The North” Assyrtiko has become a top-selling export, is a little less expressive than the Santorini wines and exhibits a gentle bouquet of white flowers, a hint of lime and quince, plus a chalky minerality and elegance – a lot of wine for a very affordable ex-factory price of around five euros per bottle.
Assyrtiko from the Tarsanas vineyard is a step up. Subtly zesty, elegantly imbued with the chalk soil, with well-integrated tannins and almost reminiscent of Burgundy, it already shows great ageing potential.
A to X of terroir wines
Be it Assyrtiko that has only recently made its home here in northern Greece, or traditional Xinomavro, deep rooted in the region, the characteristics of both varieties are perfect for representing the versatile terroir of northern Greece’s winegrowing country. As varieties they are unmistakable and clearly show the soil and the winemaker’s signature.
Thanks to the dedication, passion and willingness to experiment of producers such as Kir-Yianni, it has been possible for them to become the showpiece for a region that has no reason to cower behind Piedmont and Burgundy etc. where elegant, precise terroir wines are concerned.
Producers who also offer widely varying, unique appellations and vineyard plots, some separated by only a hedge, and others by a high mountain and a deep lake.
