Twenty years ago there was but a tawdry collection of labels on Hong Kong’s supermarket shelves, and barely a wine store in existence. Wine drinkers put up with high prices in expat-frequented Oliver’s grocer, or ordered by the case from local importers – or bought (and largely cellared) in London. Watson’s Wine launched in 1998 and is now market leader with a myriad of stores, while mainstream supermarket offerings are more varied, including broad stocks at Marks & Spencer. There are also a growing number of independent shops opening in often cool, residential locations. “The wine retail in Hong Kong is definitely getting more diverse, and that is a good sign,” says wine consultant Tersina Shieh. “Not only does this imply demand is increasing, but also reflects the fact that consumers want more choice.”
However, there have been some notable closures, including that of the innovative, digitally charged Amo Eno in the IFC Mall in Central, and Enoteca. “It is just impossible to make money with a wine retail store,” says Roland Muksch, vice-chairman of Hong Kong Wine Society, and deputy consul general of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne Greater China. “Same old Hong Kong story – all the money goes to the landlords.” Wine Society member Alan Kwok, whose wife has a small retail operation in the slightly better value North Point area, notes that the most knowledgeable buy online or via mailing list, rather than in store.
Retail stores with savvy marketing plans are bucking the trend, however: places like natural-wine-focussed 121BC and the slightly chaotic Sunday’s Grocery in Kennedy Town. “I think they really interact so well with the public and bring something totally new and different to the scene,” says Francesca Martin of BEE Drinks Global. Compared to traditional retailers, says self-styled Gourmand & Storyteller JC Viens, such operations, ”Must offer not only a superior experience, but also a different kind of experience”.
Ginsberg+Chan
6/F Loke Yew Bldg, 50-52 Queen’s Road Central
Set up by husband-and-wife team Mandy Chan and Jason Ginsberg, it’s a fun and lively operation with a strong events calendar on the rooftop. “They have done a really good job integrating on- and off-line and selling through regular events, without having to plump for a street-level location,” comments Sarah Heller, of Heller Beverage Advisory. “I think they’re on to something.” Wines at every level are offered, even including whole collections.
Winebeast
49 Johnston Road, Wanchai
There’s a buzz about Winebeast. It was established by three self-declared “passionate” sommeliers, and they certainly know what they’re talking about, plus they offer great service. The wine list focuses on France and Spain (Spanish wine has become more and more popular in Hong Kong, thanks to the proliferation of tapas bars), but includes a few eclectic labels from elsewhere. Shelf talkers include food matching ideas.
il Bel Paese
Various locations
This quality-driven Italian deli has slowly been opening more branches, some of which include restaurant tables and a bar, allowing for a broader cultural experience. About half the shelf space is given over to very affordable wine, along with other Italian beverages. They offer regular in-store tutored tastings, a process which also helps to nurture knowledgeable staff – a real key to selling effectively. It was developed by an Italian, a former priest.
Schmidt Vinothek
Various locations
This retailer (with three spacious stores) uniquely specialises in the wines of German-speaking countries: Germany, Switzerland and Austria, including plenty of organic and biodynamic wines. It offers an extensive portfolio that includes many prestigious producers. Their entry has delivered a real breath of fresh air to the Hong Kong wine scene. Schmidt Vinothek is affiliated with Schmidt Marketing, which distributes photography brands such as Leica, as well as German watches.
Wine etc
Various
Conceived by Paulo Pong, owner of wine distribution company Altaya, the three chic and digitally equipped stores have been slightly re-branded towards a broader focus away from just Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux. However, the Pedder Building shop retains a strong emphasis on Burgundy, for which there is now a huge demand in Hong Kong. In 2013 Pong also acquired retail business Rare & Fine Wines, which has four stores.
Castello del Vino
12 Anton Street, Wanchai
Remarkably, this food and wine store was opened as far back as 1996 by Italian wine importer Annelis Capelvenere, of Valdivia, the oldest wine-importing company in Hong Kong. It is now run by her daughter, Claudia. “The idea was to use it as a means to educate the market on Italian wine in more visual context,” she says. She notes that sommeliers like to offer wines made with the more unusual indigenous grapes, though she does now stock a little New World wine too.
Monsieur Chatté
121 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan
Wine accounts for up to 40% of sales at this quirky, French-focussed deli. It is run by Caroline Chatté, whose chef father established it in 2008. The idea was to avoid all the big names, and show wines from all over France – life beyond Bordeaux and Burgundy. They’ve found an eager market of wine lovers keen to try new things. There’s a cool top floor where tastings and events are held. The only competition is probably La Cabane a Vin, an excellent retail and bar operation that specialises in natural wine.
