Searching to crown Rioja region’s TOP 100, a tasting of more than 350 wines was held at the premises of Meininger Verlag – and, once again, with great results.
The atmosphere in the wine-growing region was rather subdued because of high losses due to frosts at the end of April 2017, which had left many winegrowers in the western part of the Rioja Alta as well as in the centre of the Rioja Alavesa in despair. Nevertheless, many producers took part in this most important tasting of the prestigious appellation, many renowned operations amongst them. Despite their limited presence in the export markets, even small bodegas met the challenge of being assessed by a jury of about 20 expert tasters in May this year. As expected, most of the red wine samples came from the vintages 2014 and 2015. There were numerous wines of older vintages as well, ensuring that a representative range of all qualities of the current Rioja offer was presented on the seven tasting tables. Once again, the tasters were impressed by both the wide range of wines on offer and the variety of styles, showing why the DOCa Rioja is one of the most important producers of quality wines in southern Europe.
Although the majority of samples were of the quality levels Crianza and Reserva, there was still a great variety of wine in the tasting. Matured wines with the Gran Reserva seal from as far back as the great vintage of 2001 were sampled; there was even one Reserva from 1994, the vintage of the century. Extraordinary wines could be tasted under the green generic back label that now protects young wines such as Blancos, Rosados or young Tintos, as well as many premium wines – some of which are candidates for the newly designated indication of Viñedos Singulares.
This new terroir designation, completing the consistent model assembled along international role models, brought Rioja back into the limelight of the international wine press. Since the late 1990s, about 600 producers across the entire appellation area are allowed to mention the Zona (district) as well as Municipio (village) on the label. Now they can also apply for the recognition of a physically demarcated vineyard site.
From now on, this geographical delimitation indicated as Viñedo Singular with its precisely defined conditions takes the enormous variety of terroir of the 65,000-hectare appellation on the upper Ebro into consideration.
So far rather unremarked by the specialist press is the admission of quality sparkling wines under the DOCa quality seal. In fact, some historic bodegas have been producing sparkling wines under the famous DOP Cava designation for years, which guarantees some kind of tradition for this product in the area. Time will tell if there is a broad interest. Conditions are quite ambitious: 15 months on the lees for basic qualities, 24 for the Reserva category and 36 months for the top category Gran Añada.
SPEARHEADS
The approval of the Viñedos Singulares site wines must be understood as a mere complementary indication, which adds to the existing categories of the traditional classification that is defined through maturation times. This is all about giving winegrowers and wineries the possibility to use the new model to define the origin of their wines, which is absolutely compatible with the existing classification model. This merging of concepts has, on the one hand, caused resentment with some avant-garde winegrowers but on the other hand guarantees the sector’s continuity, which is vital for the global marketing of a region such as Rioja. Put into practice it will work like this: If a producer meets the requirements for the approval of a wine as a Viñedo Singular, a site wine, he can choose to market it as a generic Rioja with a green back label, or as a wine of one of three traditional quality levels: Crianza, Reserva or Gran Reserva. In addition, the Viñedo Singular indication is included in the guarantee documents (back labels and seals) of these categories, which continue to act as the basis for all regulations and which are reinforced by this additional information. In reality, the majority of producers are likely to choose the Reserva or the generic basic level. Hardly anyone will let themselves be pinned down to the long maturation times of a Gran Reserva with such an emblematic indication.
This interlocking of concepts is likely to be less complicated than first assumed, and already now, less than a year after the ratification of the new terroir regulations, the dust has settled and opponents (just like supporters) are changing their tune to something more conciliatory. Ultimately, it can be assumed that it is actually this willingness to find compatibility that has made consensus between the most significant stakeholders in Spain’s most important quality winegrowing region possible at all.
COMPLEX LAW
A Viñedo Singular can be a single vineyard, an individual parcel, or several, connected parcels. The vineyard has to be at least 35 years old. Yields are limited to 5,000 kg per hectare for red varieties and 6,922 kg per hectare for white varieties.
In the first phase, the size of the area which is registered for approval is unrestricted. In fact, the registration of a whole or very large vineyard site is possible if the uniqueness of the terroir character can be proven. The indivisibility of such a plot is an important factor. A Viñedo Singular can only be registered once, which means that the system does not work like the site models of other famous appellations such as Burgundy. In any case, it is an exciting time for all friends of Rioja, as there are numerous candidates. Amongst the many possible top parcels there are a striking number which are planted with white grapes. There has been no official information or estimation concerning the number of parcels that could be considered; however, the industry talks about at least 200 possible, i.e. clearly demarcated and top-quality, single vineyard sites. Some optimists even talk about 2.5% of the total acreage, which would mean 1,500 hectares at best.
However the basic conditions of this indication are judged, the winegrowers reacted promptly. Just a few months after the call for proposals, 59 producers had already registered 97 single sites. This hints at a great success for the supervisory body and stakeholders, who developed the Viñedos Singulares model in many long meetings.
The new regulation concerning village wines means that they can now be announced on the label in considerably bigger font sizes. This also seems to be a success, as the feedback is positive, according to the local press at least. One hundred and forty-four villages are listed in the body of rules and regulations of the wine authority, 118 of which are situated in La Rioja, 18 in the Basque province of Álava, as well as eight in the Navarra region, which has several thousands of hectares registered as DOCa Rioja acreage.
The wine authority itself in Logroño, the Consejo Regulador, is cautious about commenting on the obviously good acceptance of the new indication. The supervisory body expects a rather slow development in the number of approvals in the next three years. They say it is indeed correct that a high number of applications have been received, and interest is growing. However, many bodegas might not have yet realized how complex and costly the path to the Viñedo Singular status could be. For example, a compulsory report needs to include not only the age of the vineyard, its exact size and exposure, and a summary of qualities produced so far, but also a detailed analysis of the soil.
The producer, however, does not need to own the site, but any lease contract has to cover a period of a decade as a minimum. Ultimately, the authorities insist on continuity. Not every winery will appreciate this aspect of the regulations. Additionally, every single site wine has to be registered as a brand. Which producers will come out first and advance to Viñedo Singular pioneers is still written in the stars.
David Schwarzwälder
Blancos and Rosados 3.50 – 10.00 EUR
912017 Chobeo de Peciña (Blanco) Bodegas Hermanos Peciña SL Classic Viura with some waxy and earthy nuances, white blossoms, nice freshness, appealing creaminess, good length 912017 Noralba (Blanco) Bodegas Castillo de Mendoza Exotic and spicy style; apricot, peach, white blossoms, pepper, phenolic traction, quite complex 902016 Nivarius (Blanco), Bodega Nivarius SL Herbal, blueberry, peppery, nutty and balsamic hints, lots of traction, very balanced, nice acidity and good length 892016 Hacienda el Ternero (Blanco) Viñedos del Ternero SL Very floral Viura style, rose and violets, roasted apple, almonds, good length and balance, mild acidity 892014 Ostatu (Blanco), Bodegas Ostatu SL Delicate, open but still fresh fruit; waxy, herbal and spicy notes, well balanced notes of maturation, great for food pairings |
892006 Viña Soledad Tête de Cuvée (Blanco) Bodegas Franco Españolas SA Exciting stage of maturation, seems younger than 2006, bread crust, honey and some dried fruit, appears exciting and and still fresh on the palate 882017 El Coto (Blanco), El Coto de Rioja SA Interesting Rioja-Verdejo, grassy-spicy, grapefruit, harmonious and fresh-fruity 882017 Campo Viejo (Rosado) Pernod Ricard Winemakers Spain Well made Rosado; delicate, ripe berries; good body and acidity structure, nice freshness 882016 Gómez Cruzado (Blanco) Bodegas y Viñedos Gómez Cruzado SA Exciting blend with some Tempranillo Blanco, citrus notes, herbal spiciness, nicely refreshing acidity, pleasant wooden notes 882016 Alma Tobía (Blanco), Bodegas Tobia SL Spicy, strong wooden touch, creamy-ripe fruit, medium-bodied with a long finish |
Crianzas 4.50 – 20.00 EUR
942015 Tuercebotas (Crianza) Bodegas del Medievo SL Intense mineral character, flintstone, gunpowder, iodine, black berries, Earl Grey tea and licorice, great depth, power, very structured 932015 Proelio (Crianza), Bodega Nivarius SL Very harmonious, red berries, attractively meaty, blue blossoms, bergamot, black tea, well-balanced and lots of traction, with a long finish 922015 Beronia (Crianza) Bodegas Beronia SA Impressive Crianze, delicately smoky and mineral nuances, floral touch, red fruit, subtle cocoa, juicy and full-bodied, invigorating 922014 Cosme Palacio (Crianza) Bodegas Palacio SA Little fruit, rather spicy with coffee, tobacco and toffee; multilayered palate, harmonious and with good length 912015 Ijalba (Crianza) Viña Ijalba SA Concentrated character, pine needles, balsamic fruit, chocolaty; traction with freshness on the palate, good aftertaste 912015 Fos (Crianza) , Bodegas Fos SL Roast aromas, leather, smoke and charcoal, slightly meaty, red fruit, smooth tannins, good finish, a wine for autumn 912015 El Pacto (Crianza), Bodega Classica SL Meaty and smoky, pinewood, intense berry notes, modern on the palate, with traction and powerful tannins 912015 Paco Garcia (Crianza) Bodegas Paco Garcia SL Appears very youthful, aromatic woody notes, black cherries; good intensity, lean, elegant, and with a great finish 902015 Castroviejo (Crianza) Bodegas Pastor Diaz SL Strong wooden touch, American oak with lots of coconut, smokey, tobacco, dark fruit; concentrated, good length and lots of potential 902015 Orube (Crianza) Bodega Solar Viejo de Laguardia SL Blackberry, forest fruit, eucalyptus, distinctive barrique notes, somewhat leathery; complex and rich in extract, chocolate and cassis Treasure cellars: long bottle ageing plays an important role in the appellation 902015 Rioja Vega (Crianza), Rioja Vega SA Modern style, warm and fruit-driven, cloves, distinctly roasted aroma; concentrated, oakdriven finish 902015 Viña Olabarri (Crianza), Viña Olabarri SA Cherry preserve, balsamic notes; delicate, mineral spiciness; elegant, timeless style; nice length 902015 AGNVS de Valdelana (Crianza) Bodegas Valdelana SL Intense red berries, a lot of spiciness (clove, pepper), chocolate and cocoa, noticeable wood but good structure |
902014 Finca San Martín (Crianza) Torre de Oña SA Multifaceted bouquet, spice and fruit, delicately oxidative, elegant; tobacco and chocolate on the palate, length and potential 902014 Berceo (Crianza) Bodega Luis Gurpegui Muga SA Very harmonious, multilayered nose with red fruit and earthy, toasty spiciness; tannins present but not mouth-drying, great length 892015 Montecillo (Crianza) Bodegas Montecillo SA Licorice, wax, tar and black tea, concentrated, coconut; ripe tannins, noticable acidity 892015 El Coto (Crianza), El Coto de Rioja SA Matured classic style, fragrant-sweet spiciness and red forest fruit, nice intensity, supple and rich in extracts 892015 Viña Pomal (Crianza) Bodegas Bilbaínas SA Fresh and herbal, peppery, light red fruit; lean with lots of energy, good length, harmonious acidity 892015 Dominio de Berzal (Crianza) Dominio de Berzal S. Coop. Light cherries, intense spice, pepper, lovage, harmonious already now 892015 Tarón (Crianza), Bodegas Tarón A lot of dark fruit, blackberry, cherry, sophisticated use of oak, delicate bouquet; still young on the palate, needs some more time 882015 Viña Real (Crianza), CVNE – Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España Quite open bouquet, slightly developed, preserved fruit, smoky notes, meaty and leathery; becoming accessible now but with future potential 882015 Senorío de Villarrica (Crianza) Señorío de Villarrica SL Attractive, unadourned style; cool spiciness, eucalyptus, smoky, well-inegrated wooden notes 882015 Eguren Ugarte (Crianza) Eguren Ugarte Sweet and warm berry fruit, black olives, some pepper, lean, medium length 882014 Ortega Ezquerro (Crianza), Bodegas y Viñedos Ortega Ezquerro SL Ripe red fruit, rustic, a lot of spice, warm, supple and juicy on the palate 882014 Miguel Merino Viñas Jóvenes (Crianza), Bodega Miguel Merino SL Delicate, fruity style with little spice, easy drinking, supple and well-rounded 882014 Magister Bibendi (Crianza) Serrano Arriezu A. y R. S.C. Pronounced cherry, also vanilla, still delicate; intense on the palate, medium length |
Reservas, Gran Reservas and Genéricos 6.50 – 20.00 EUR 4.5
942011 Imperial (Gran Reserva), CVNE - Compañía Vinicola del Norte de España Sheer classic elegance, dark fruit, elderberry, black cherries, dark chocolate, also tobacco, lively tannins, refreshing acidity, timeless 932013 Viña Pomal (Reserva) Bodegas Bilbaínas SA Quiet, more reserved, traditional type; lots of tobacco, leaves, sour cherries, subtly floral, juiciness, solid structure 922012 Mirto (Genérico) Bodegas Ramón Bilbao SA Modern style, black forest fruit, earthy and roast aromas; nice density and length, harmonious and not too heavy 922009 Murua (Reserva), Bodegas Murua SA Oriental spiciness (mace, cardamon, allspice, cinnamon), black tea and a lot of wild cherries, some licorice; lots of traction and lively acidity 912012 Barón D‘Anglade (Reserva) Bodegas Franco Españolas SA Very delicate, earthy tobacco spiciness; elegant mineral notes, some wild cherry, juicy-tart and firm 912012 Muga (Reserva), Bodegas Muga SA Rather modern but with traditional, slightly earthy touch; sour cherries und forest berries, rather lean, spicy, pronounced fruit 912011 Valenciso (Reserva), Compañia Bodeguera de Valenciso SA Elegant mix of tradition and modern style, earthy and spicy, dark cherries; delicate chalky mineral character, dense, complex, with a good length 912010 Montecillo (Gran Reserva) Bodegas Montecillo SA Textbook-style classic Rioja, morello cherry, floral touch, earthy, tobacco; lots of potential, rounded and gripping 902015 Tobia (Genérico), Bodegas Tobia SL Shows classic but also modern aspects, vanilla, dark red fruit; mineral and multilayered, good structure and density 902015 Pujanza Finca Valdepoleo (Genérico) Bodegas y Viñedos Pujanza SLU Rather delicate in its bouquet and elegant with a lot of dark berries; on the palate; youthful, salty and with great potential 902014 Parcela nº5 (Genérico) Bodegas Luis Alegre SA Vegetal touch, green beans plus red fruit, salty minerality and delicate acidity structure 902014 Mazuelo de la Quinta Cruz (Genérico), Bodega Miguel Merino SL Excitingly unique varietal wine, dark cherry, licorice, slightly leathery, taninns quite smooth already but still with good potential 902014 La Senoba (Genérico) Bodega Sendero Royal SL Modern style, crisp cherry, iodium, smoky and reductive; mineral with traction on the palate, pronounced acidity 902013 Castillo de Albai (Reserva) Pagos del Rey, SL Dark elegant type, dark chocolate, black cherries, delicately floral, very dense, juicy and tart 902013 Gonzalo de Berceo (Reserva) Bodegas Berceo SA Tea and tobacco notes, black cherries, earthy and floral nuances, fine wooden notes; juicy and firm, great tannins 902013 Señorio de Cuzcurrita (Genérico) Castillo de Cuzcurrita SL Not yet completely charming but has great potential, cassis and pepper; youthful with noticable adstringency, storage potential 902011 Señorio de Peciña (Reserva) Bodegas Hermanos Peciña SL Traditional style, black cherries and dark chocolate, some leather; delicately nutty with some oxidation, good complexity 902011 Finca Valpiedra (Reserva) Bodega Finca Valpiedra Beautiful notes of maturation, intense berries, some meaty aromas; well-balanced palate, complex, gripping and long 902009 Viña Ardanza (Reserva) La Rioja Alta SA Delicate notes of maturation, earthy spiciness, licorice, tea and nutty nuances; on the palate lively acidity, tannins still solid 892015 CM (Genérico) Bodegas y Viñedos Carlos Moro SL Spicy, delicate fruit, very harmonious, wild strawberry jam, medium body, still adstringent |
892014 Castroviejo (Reserva), Pastor Diaz SL Intense dark forest fruit, also earthy and mineral spiciness, tobacco, pepper, licorice and iodium; lots of traction with great mineral notes, not too opulent 892013 Fos (Reserva), Bodegas Fos SL Nutty-toffee type, intense forest fruit, salty and mineral character, lively acidity, tannin backbone 892012 Lealtanza (Reserva) Bodegas Altanza SA Iodious and earthy spice, elderberry and forest fruit, also licorice, floral; tart and firm on the palate, seems youthful 892012 Ortega Ezquerro (Reserva) Bodegas y Viñedos Ortega Ezquerro SL Opulent style, open berry aromas, coffee, wood nicely integrated, good length 892011 Vivanco (Reserva) Bodega Vivanco SL Delicate, traditional style; earthy-iodious, some leaves, some leather, attractive notes of maturation, lively acidity 892011 Hacienda el Ternero (Reserva) Viñedos del Ternero SL Ethereal spice, pepper, licorice, tea, bellpepper and black cherries; intense traction and lots of potential 892009 Loriñon (Reserva) Bodegas Vinicola Real SL Appears quite young, tobacco, berries and cherries, some vanilla; gripping mouthfeel, young acidity 882016 Ijalba (Genérico), Viña Ijalba SA Dark berries, spicy notes, mint, harmonious with good density and length 882016 Paco García (Genérico) Bodegas Paco García SL Green and vegetal notes, cherry and chocolate, delicate roast aromas, silky-fruity, medium density 882015 Pagos de Labarca (Genérico) Sdad. Coop. Lapuebla de Labarca Ltd. Spicy type, allspice, cinnamon, ripe red berries, juicy, good acidity structure 882015 Propiedad (Genérico) Bodegas Palacios Remondo SA Dark berries, some green-vegetal notes, cocoa, full-bodied, dense body, mouthfilling 882014 Beronia Mazuelo (Reserva) Bodegas Beronia SA Very dark type, elderberry, cocoa, floral, juicy with pronounced acidity, fresh and invigorating 882013 Lagunilla (Reserva) Marqués De La Concordia Family Wines Appears more traditional, earthy, tobacco, leather, cigar box, cranberries, some underbrush, delicately matured, lively acidity 882013 Campo Viejo (Reserva) Pernod Ricard Winemakers Spain Elegant character, black tea, wild cherries, minty-floral, dark aromas; very firm taninns, stable acidity, appears youthful 882013 Monte Real (Reserva) Bodegas Riojanas SA Classic, rather delicate fragrance, tea, some black cherry and elderberry, nice freshness, delicate tannins 882012 Marqués de Terán (Reserva) Marqués de Terán SL International, modern style, notes of berries, lots of spiciness; firm tannins, storage potential also thanks to stable acidity 882011 Zinio (Reserva) Bodegas Patrocinio S. Coop. L. Beginning oxidation but currently exciting and well-balanced, licorice, fruit in rum, plum butter, classically earthy and leathery, smooth tannins 882011 Magister Bibendi (Reserva) Serrano Arriezu A. y R. S.C. Appears very modern, toffee and tanbark notes, peppery with a touch of ham, interesting spiciness, lean and tart 882010 Viña Olabarri (Gran Reserva) Viña Olabarri SA A lot of ripe plum, spicy-earthy and pronouncedly woody; some licorice, shows complexity 882007 Manzanos (Gran Reserva) Bodegas Manzanos SL Black currant, floral spiciness, forest floor, rather elegant, harmonious and with potential 882014 Roda (Reserva), Bodegas Roda SA Dark and floral type, black cherry, some tea, very firm tannins and good acidity More than 350 wines were tasted by the expert jury |
Reservas, Gran Reservas and Genéricos more than 20.00 EUR
942015 La Loma (Genérico) Bodega Miguel Merino SL Very fragrant, plum butter, cinnamon, very refreshing, currant, red berries, some coffee; youthful and lively acidity, modern and exciting 942010 Prado Enea (Gran Reserva) Bodegas Muga SL Reserved but greatly elegant, appears extremely young, cinnamon, cedar, blackberries, a lot of lively acidity; ripe, firm tannins; super classic 932015 Cerro las Cuevas (Genérico) Bodegas y Viñedos Gómez Cruzado SA Dark cherry fruit, distinct roast aromas, still quite reserved; delicate earthy and mineral spiciness, traction without being fat, firm, tart finish 932001 Montecillo (Gran Reserva) Bodegas Montecillo SA Nicely matured, balsamic fruit, delicate tobacco notes, ethereal-herbal spice, dried cherries and figs; seems rather lean, very lively with good tannins 922013 Gran Albina (Reserva) Bodegas Riojanas SA Seems rather classic, delicate berry notes, wild strawberries and cassis, some dried herbs, pronounced but well integrated acidity 922012 Cosme Palacio (Reserva) Bodegas Palacio SA Sophisticatedly modern, intense forest fruit, red cabbage, tobacco, pepper, iodium and iron; lots of traction; coarse, present tannins; stable 922010 Marqués de Riscal (Gran Reserva) Bodegas de los Herederos del Marqués de Riscal SL Very classical style, milk chocolate, cigar box and sandalwood, plums, cinnamon, herbaceous, laurel; demanding, vital tannins, fine acidity, great length 922009 Gran Reserva 904, La Rioja Alta SA Really delicate, classically earthy fragance; a lot of floral nuances (rose, violets), right stage of maturation to enjoy, rather light body but great elegance 922004 200 Monges (Gran Reserva) Bodegas Vinicola Real SLU Impressive, concentrated bouquet, dark fruit, noticable spice, appears young; opulent but still well-balanced on the palate 922001 Conde de los Andes (Genérico) Bodegas Muriel SL Noticeably matured, very traditional yet exciting, sweet forest berries, floral to vegetal; light, lean and with refreshing acidity, ripe and integrated tannins 921994 Evento (Reserva) Castillo de Mendoza SL Meaty flavours, intense berry notes, black tea, no oxidation, still seems youthful on the palate thanks to its acidity, not too opulent |
912015 Finca La Emperatriz Parcela nº 1 (Genérico), Hermanos Hernaiz Viñedos y Bodegas SLU Blueberries, ethereal spice, delicately lactic, smoke and a wooden touch; still a little adstringent but with potential and complexity 912011 Faustino Icon (Reserva) Bodegas Faustino SL Floral to medicinal, exciting spiciness, also eucalyptus, dark chocolate; modern character, coarse tannins, rich in extracts 902015 Colección Vivanco Parcelas de Graciano (Genérico), Bodega Vivanco SL Dark, tart and delicately floral, juniper, blackberry, cocoa; lots of traction, opulent but not over the top, can mature for much longer 902015 Alma Tobía (Genérico) Bodegas Tobía SL Proncounced fruit, roast aromas (coffee, flintstone, chocolate), good structure with density and length 902014 Lan A Mano (Genérico) Bodegas Lan SA Luscious and intense, modern fruitiness; very concentrated, somewhat medicinal, rich in extracts, juicy and opulent but not too much 902014 El Puntido (Genérico) Sierra Cantabria SA Powerful dark fruit, black cherry, cassis and dark chocolate, distinctive new oak; enormous density and length without being plump 902014 Polus (Genérico) Bodegas L. Casado SL Still quite young, pronouncedly leathery, earthy spiciness, sour cherries and pepper, medium length 902014 Valserrano Finca Monteviejo (Genérico), Viñedos y Bodegas de la Marquesa SL Herbal character, a lot of sour cherry, spicy wood and blackberry; very young tannins, juicy, rich in extracts and concentrated 892015 Pujanza Norte (Genérico) Bodegas y Viñedos Pujanza SLU Noticable toffee, not too much fruit, still very youthful, red berries; firm, young tannins 882014 Pontac (Genérico) Bodegas Luis Alegre SA Cinnamon, dark cherries and elderberry, dark chocolate, also pepper, storage potential |
